Archive for the ‘Horses’ Category

posted by Animal Lover2 on Nov 25

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by writerrighter

There are a lot of considerations in your goal of safe surroundings and room to roam in the company and security of other horses. By its nature a horse is most relaxed while grazing leisurely. So a fenced in paddock without grass is not ideal in the horse’s terms, although he may tend to move about more playing with a mate in the paddock. A pasture suited to a horse will fend off many injuries and health problems.

Stabling Your Horse

Whether a horse can be stabled depends on the work he will be doing and his breed. Certain breeds that have thinner skin and ancestry from very warm climates are not hardy and must be stabled during the coldest of winter. Such breeds would be Thoroughbreds, Arabs and Andalusians. A stable blanket fitted to them may be needed too. Whenever a horse is required to do hard work or endurance it should be stabled and fed accordingly.

A stall-kept horse is protected from inclement weather, especially cold and rain. The added security of knowing where your horse is and having convenient access to her is better than having her out of sight and difficult or impossible to catch. She will be cleaner as she will not be running or rolling in mud and water. You don’t have to sustain a pasture of edible grasses and depend on rainfall, or live on acreage. The possibility of your horse eating poisonous plants or trees is erased. Also, she won’t suffer from high level contamination of worms from a field overgrazed over many years.

She would never suffer from laminitus by eating too much newly sown grass. You will be able to carefully control what food she ingests. This is especially useful for an active horse needing grains. Cold weather may cause agitation in the form of “the need to move” to get circulation going. Ample bedding encourages lying down to provide warmth and completely rest her. See why it’s called bedding! Covering the floor also removes the harsh long-term effect of standing on a hard floor.

Various types of stall flooring to choose from follow. Studies have shown that horses differ in their own preference.

Straw: It is economical and can be spread over fields to dispose of. The best comes from stems of oats, wheat, rye or barley. It drains easily and is usually pretty widely available but is highly inflammable.

Wood Shavings and Sawdust: They provide a hygienic bed and don’t contain spores like straw, as long as it is the dust free kind. If your horse develops respiratory problems it is an alternative to straw. They are commonly stored in bags, so they can be outside. Drawbacks to shavings are that they are slow drying and heavy when wet.

Wood Pellets: Their cost is initially more expensive than wood shavings but they result in less waste because they last a long time. The pellets are hard and appear uncomfortable, but a sprinkle with the water hose expands them into fluffy bedding.

Hemp: The core of the stalk of this plant is exceptionally absorbent. It benefits horses with dust allergies. After 6 weeks it will rot down to a favorable compost. It is legally grown in Canada. Your horse will not smoke it though. Shredded Paper: This is the most dust free and is often used for performance horses. It should be laid down as a deep bed as it saturates quickly.

Peat Moss: This, where available, can be comfortable and easily disposed of. It doesn’t burn, but is expensive and its dark color makes wet areas hard to find. Rubber Matting: It does not provide protection from cold. When wet it does not absorb but is low cost. If cleaned frequently with a hose mucking is quick.

Keeping A Pasture: A field allows your horse to roam at will; but even in a large field a horse is accident-prone. Fencing is a factor in keeping horses safe. The best is wooden post and rail.

It must be sturdy since horses may rub against it. A tall, thick hedge works well, protecting against wind, rain and snow and providing some shade. Wire fencing may be used, but the lowest wire must not be close to the ground as a hoof will get caught in it. Never use barb wire as a horse could run into it. Gates should not open to busy roads, and a horse-proof catch is needed; as is a chain and padlock to deter horse thieves. The width of a gate should be 6 feet so your horse doesn’t bang itself passing through.

A shelter, such as a multiangled screen 6 feet high, needs to be built with its back to the prevailing wind away from fencing. A wooded area is some protection but tends to attract more horseflies in the summer. A turnout blanket can be used to keep your horse dry and warm and a facemask in summer for flies.

All paddocks should be checked for poisonous plants, trees and shrubs. The most dangerous is ragwort. Clean water must always be accessible. The ideal would be an unpolluted stream or river. Stagnant ponds should be fenced off. A galvanized water trough is ok and must be completely refilled every week, even if horses won’t be there as it is a mosquito breeding area. Check on it every day and be prepared to break ice 2 to 3 times a day if cold. Never place it in a corner where horses could trap each other. The ground around it will be subject to much wear as horses drink a lot. Get a sturdy container that won’t get knocked over.

Ideally, a field has grasses from seeds selected and mixed with horses in mind. Rye, creeping red fescue, crested dog’s tail, meadow grass, wild white clover and timothy are all good. Well-drained soil is best. Horses bite close to the ground and overgrazing results in barren areas alternating with patches of weeds. This will turn to mud in wet weather, so management is important. The quality of of grazing will depend on soil type, rain, wind and altitude. Get the soil tested.

Remove or harrow droppings to control worm infestation. Rest the pasture periodically. If large enough divide it into sections: one for the horses and the other allow to be renewed or fertilized. Harrowing in the spring encourages new growth by removing dead plants. The best home for any horse is to have a stall along with a field to allow him to get exercise and eat natural grasses at least part of each day. Good luck to you and your horse!
About the Author
Horse Care & Stabling Written by writerrighter. at Zestbit.com | How to Get and share answers.

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posted by Animal Lover2 on Oct 10


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by M.C.

Nowadays, you can find almost, if not everything you need online. A quick simple search on Google will pull out thousands of results you can therefore rummage through to find exactly what it is you need. Why should horses be any different? You should be able to find horses for sale online right?

Well, yes you are right. In the past couple of years more and more websites that allow you to buy or sell horses online have been popping up on the internet. Actually, I think it is now difficult to determine which websites to sell your horses on, because of the wide selection now available.

Don’t despair, there is a way to choose which websites to use. These horse selling websites are commonly known as horse classifieds and all employ different models and systems. There are some that allow you to post free ads with free photos, some ask you to post free text ads with paid photos and some just ask you to pay for your ad upfront with the photos already included.

If you are a buyer and are looking to deal with serious sellers only, I would recommend you stick to the horse classifieds that ask the seller to pay upfront for the ads and the photos too. If on the other hand you are willing to risk dealing with some amateur sellers then you can indeed look for horses for sale on the free horse classified websites.

Here are 3 places you can find horses for sale online…

1. Equine.com - They allow free text ads. If the seller wants to include photos or any other features there are different packages they can select, depending on what they need.

2. HorseTopia.com - They allow free text classifieds. If the seller wants to include photos they have to pay an extra fee.

3. EquineHits.com - They allow free photo classifieds. A seller is required to register and create an account before listing their horse for sale.

There are definitely more places you can go to look for horses for sale online but the websites above are the classifieds that seem to get more traffic and also more new horses listed every single day. Whatever horse breed you are looking for, should be available as well as many other breeds you never knew existed.
About the Author
If you are looking for more horse classifieds, check out our site: www.A1HorseClassifieds.com

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posted by Animal Lover2 on Dec 29

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By: Andy Curry

I get a lot of horse training questions about stopping a horse from kicking. The kicking habits of these horses range from the horse kicking at virtually anyone to kicking at only the husbands.

It’s a daunting problem that lots of people have no idea how to cure. That being so, I want to share some insight to horses kicking.

First I want to relate some causes of horses starting in the habit of kicking. Because a horse kicks is no reason to think he is naturally bad or unmanageable. I don’t think there is a horse alive that is “naturally” vicious. In fact, they’re made that way due to bad management or ignorant handlers.

Admittedly, there are some horses that inherit the characteristics of their ancestors. But one should never start to break a horse without first taking into consideration the nature, disposition, and understanding of a horse.

For instance, there are some horses that are naturally predisposed to have a “not so good” disposition. There are certain physical characteristics you can spot on a horse that indicate what his disposition is like.

Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800’s, was brilliant at deciphering a horse’s disposition. He even wrote extensively about how to do it. You can read about it at http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beery_etips.htm.

Anyway, now we can handle the horse according to its disposition. We can get it very nearly equal with a good dispositioned horse. All the difference in the world is due to the management and training of the colt. A horse with a “not so good’ disposition will require more patience and thorough work.

All animals in nature have a self defense of some sort. A horse’s self defense is kicking. After all, if you work with a horse that gets badly excited by some cause (such as ropes or chains coming in contact with his legs and those parts of his body aren’t broken) his first inclination is to kick it out of the way.

The trick is to break a horse in a way that the habit never occurs in the first place. Too many people think a lesson will be enough to educate the horse to be ready to go. But if you’re driving your horse and he gets caught under the tail or the cross pieces of the shaft touch his quarters…and those parts are unbroken, it would likely frighten and excite him enough to cause him to kick.

And the worse part is this: Once started, there is an increased inclination to go on kicking until confirmed in the habit.

So the cure is prevention. You must make all parts of his body submissive to sensitivity of his extremities. One way to do this is using a technique called poling. Essentially, you take a light pole and start at a horse’s nose, rub it over the mane, back, belly, quarters, and sensitive parts of the body, until all muscles become relaxed.

But what if you have a horse confirmed in the habit of kicking?

If that’s the case, I can give you three possible answers.

One is to sell the horse. If you feel it’s not fixable then it’s not a good idea to keep the horse around. You’re going to get severely injured if you’re not extra careful.

Two, get a professional trainer to help you. A trainer will charge anywhere from $400.00 per month to $900 per month. Is that worth it to get your horse to stop kicking? Only you can decide.

Third, you can learn to do it yourself. There are solutions out there that are pretty good. Jesse Beery, which I mentioned earlier, has a permanent solution to stop it - and it’s a guaranteed solution.

About the author: Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery’s horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm

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